REVIEW: THE SHED, DERBY

Discovering provenance has never been more popular, as an ever discerning public question where food on their plate has come from.

This curiosity isn’t a product of the horse-meat scandal of 2013 which pre-dates people’s curiosity about the food source; it is more of wanting to connect with the products on the plate and feel an emotional attachment to the food.

Enter Danny Edwards; chef, hospitality consultant and food writer, whose eaterie The Shed at Hilton is creating a buzz guaranteeing bums on seats.

Danny’s culinary journey (including head chef-ship at The Palfrey pre-fire) is inspirational, including trips abroad to bolster his recipe repertoire.

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The Shed at Hilton is new on the dining scene. Based on the farm (you can see livestock wandering the paddock), the venue location is unique, local and the very definition of rustic. High wooden beams, framed plates, cotton bunting and gingham trimmed chiffon curtains all add to the farmhouse vibe. A pantry table is situated at the entrance, where diners can stock up their larder, with cauliflower, free-range duck eggs and tomatoes on offer.

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The pass is impressive for a cosy space. If you’re lucky, you can spot the in-demand burgers being made. Here’s this beauty that caught my eye, a vegan offering (dietary requirements will be catered for, but only with advance notice).

5It is a quaint, cool way to spend a Friday evening. The menu is compact and practical (the last thing I want at the end of a long week is be bombarded with multiple dishes). The Shed’s USP is it’s Bring Your Own Booze policy, which is why you can see my favourite rosé there, and dining partner’s Hop House.

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For main, I had the Henny Penny Burger (free-range chicken, glazed camembert, smoked bacon, crispy shallots). It’s a whopper of a burger, and one that I nearly struggled to get my chops around. This is a good thing, which highlights the generous portions served here. The meat was tender, the bacon excellent in all its salty glory, and the addition of The Burger Shed bacon jam inspired.

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I ordered halloumi fries with my burger, which had a good crunch on the outside, and yielded squeaky, gooey-in-parts halloumi. Dining partner had Head Like A Shed – Danny’s Signature Burger (Shed beef patty, Korean pulled beef brisket, pickled chilli). The addition of Fontina cheese imparted a buttery, nutty dimension to the dish which was inspired, as it tempered the peppery piquancy of the tangy chilli.

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Dessert was chocolate cake (and it being Easter weekend, meant that I could indulge in chocolate without feeling too guilty). Sponge was light, I especially liked the buttercream which had a delicious fudgy, ganache-esque quality to it.

I fell in love with Danny’s cooking last year and thought his take on flavours from East Asia most exciting. Danny had also prepared a fish burger and coleslaw, which although I was too full to eat, took home with me. This happened to be Sunday lunch and it was blooming marvellous. The burger was succulent and meaty with a nice tinge of spice. Coleslaw was crunchy in texture and flavoursome, as the sweet and sour flavours melded to provide a delicious party in my mouth. (Note: for the burger photo at home as below, I used Flying Goose Hoisin Sauce on the tomato, and home-made potato salad, recipe that I’ll post shortly.)

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Danny is doing great things at The Shed. There was a convivial vibe, and service was stellar; hat-tip to the attentive Ellie for providing wonderful service with a smile.

It is rare to see an establishment that serves locally sourced, delicious food that also allows you to bring your own bottle. Not relying on alcohol mark-up is courageous and wonderful, so thank you Danny for being an innovator in bringing The Shed to Derby.

I love knowing where my food has come from, and I foresee more places opening which champion transparency, putting diners in control and leaving everyone happily educated about the provenance of ingredients.

Rating: (1: Hate: I’d rather eat my shoe – 10: Love: I’d sell my kidney for a meal here)

Food: 9.5

Value for money: 10

Ambience: 9

Service: 9

#InANutshell

Eatery name: The Shed

Open since: 28 March 2018

Covers: 26 indoor + more al fresco

Address: The Shed, Sudale, Uttoxeter Rd, Hilton, DE65 5FZ Derby

Opening times:

The Burger Shed; FRIDAY ONLY 6:00pm – 9:30pm

The Pie Shed; THURSDAY ONLY 12:00pm – 8:00pm

Sunday Lunch 1:00pm – 4:00pm

How to make reservation: Facebook / Telephone

Call: 07757 793463

Head Chef: Danny

Front of House: Ellie

Website

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